Hiking Greenland’s Arctic Circle Trail: PART 3

Arctic Circle Trail Hut
Ikkattooq Hut on the Arctic Circle Trail
Pingu, Greenland

I remove my clothing and waterproof my gear in preparation for the deepest and most dangerous river crossing of the hike. It’s time to get wet!

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Packing/Logistics

DAY 7: Ikkattooq to Eqalugaarniarfik (and beyond)

Hiking Distance 19 km (12 miles) | 8 hours

Before we get to the river, let me first tell you about an interesting Danish couple I met at the Ikkattooq cabin. We chatted for a few hours before night fell, hiding out from the storm overhead.

Fleming & Ellen have hiked the Arctic Circle Trail 6 times now.

They’re both 70 years old. And if that wasn’t enough to impress you, they’ve also trekked completely across Greenland over its vast ice cap! An astonishing feat that takes a month to accomplish pulling sleds full of food & gear.

These two have hiked to Everest Base Camp, climbed Mont Blanc (Europe’s highest mountain), and are frankly some bad-ass senior citizen adventurers. Plus, they didn’t even get into trekking until they were in their 40’s.

It’s never too late to try something new & challenging.

Fleming & Ellen
Meet Fleming & Ellen from Denmark
Cold Morning
A Cold Early Morning Start

Greenland’s Mosquitos

The next morning we part ways and I start to climb over a steep ridge in crisp 38 degree mountain air. From there the trail winds down into a huge valley. Descending to the river below is when the first mosquitos begin to attack.

Greenland has a big mosquito problem.

They breed in the many lakes & ponds scattered across the landscape, feeding on the reindeer population. But mosquitos are hatching earlier and earlier each year — which many scientists attribute to global warming.

When hiking the Arctic Circle Trail in June or July, these epic swarms are out in force. Wearing a mosquito headnet is essential for keeping your sanity.

By mid August most of them die off due to colder night temperatures. I still encountered small swarms over bogs & marshy areas of the trail. These little insects are a huge pain in the ass!

Arctic Circle Trail Bones
More Reindeer Bones
Arctic Circle Trail River Crossing
Let’s Get Wet!

Naked River Crossing

The valley surrounds Ole’s Lakseelv, the widest & deepest river on the Arctic Circle Trail. The local name for it is Itinneq. There are two ways to cross.

You can get wet and ford right through, or take a longer detour to a wooden bridge that was built nearby. In the early spring or after a lot of rain the river level can be high, up to your chest.

However in mid-August, knee or thigh-high is more common.

I was determined to ford right through. But because it had rained the night before, I wasn’t sure how deep the river would be.

To be safe, I stripped down to my birthday suit and waterproofed my hiking back-pack by lining it with heavy-duty garbage bags. The source of all this water is Greenland’s ice cap, so you can imagine how cold it is!

Slowly & carefully I maneuver my way across the river using trekking poles for support. The icy water reached the top of my thighs at its deepest point. Safely on the opposite bank I dry off, repack, and continue into the valley.

Eqalugaarniarfik Cabin
Can You Spot the Cabin?
Cotton Grass
Patches of Cotton Grass
Wild Greenland
Into the Wild

Reconnecting With Nature

The trail rises up into the rocky mountains again towards Eqalugaarniarfik Hut after the river. I encounter my 6th reindeer along the way and stop for a while to watch her graze.

There’s nothing like a boots off, socks off, lay-in-the-grass break every 1-2 hours to keep you fresh and rested on a long distance trek. It’s been about a week since I’ve had to respond to email, write blog posts, edit photos, or stay active on social media — and I don’t miss it.

While I love my job working as a professional blogger, being online all the time takes its toll. This journey into Greenland’s wilderness on my own with no distractions feels like a proper vacation.

I pass Eqalugaarniarfik Hut and hike uphill on an old snowmobile track lined with white-tipped cotton grass blowing in the wind. Turning to watch the little red building shrink in the distance.

Arctic Circle Trail Lakes
Lakes Around Every Corner
Crow Berries
Arctic Crow Berries
Camping in the Arctic
Camping in the Mountains

DAY 8: Eqalugaarniarfik to Innajuattoq (and beyond)

Hiking Distance 19 km (12 miles) | 7 hours

It gets windy but I manage to find a decent camping spot sheltered by hills on all sides. Pitching my Hyperlite Mountain Gear Echo II tent beside a small pond as a pair of snow-white arctic hares watch me from rocks nearby.

Mosquitos wake me the next morning. I’m packed up and on the trail by 9am after munching on wild berries & mushrooms as a light breakfast.

The path continues over a mountainous region dotted with lakes. Patches of permanent snow can be seen on the peaks. Looking at the landscape, you get a sense of how massive glaciers carved this valley long ago.

At the first of the two Innajuattoq huts I stop to take an afternoon nap surrounded by the rugged Taseeqqap Saqqaa mountain range. Walking down to the 2nd, larger hut I discover my Danish friends Fleming & Ellen who’d passed me as I slept.

They show me where to cross the river ahead as it drains from a lake. I hike on while they choose to end their day early at the cabin.

Arctic Circle Trail Cabin
Innajuattoq Cabin
Arctic Circle Trail River
Another River Crossing
Arctic Circle Trail Cairn
Red Painted Cairn Marks the Route

The Reindeer Family

Suddenly I see two reindeer 50 yards to my left. Then three more, including a baby. It’s a whole family! I carefully take off my bright orange backpack, pull out my camera, and crawl on my stomach commando style up a hill to try and capture photos before they spot me.

This is the closest they’ve been, and I get great shots.

Then the wind shifts and one of the males smells me (easy to do after a week with no shower) and sounds the alarm by grunting to the others who quickly run off in all directions.

Greenland’s arctic tundra is covered in flowers during the spring & summer. Purple, blue, red, pink, yellow. I’m not sure what the names are — my favorite is a little red one that looks like it belongs in a Dr. Seuss book.

The trail passes through a forest at one point too! Well, what seems like a forest by Greenland’s standards. A grove of dwarf willow trees 6-7 feet high.

Flowers in Greenland
Dr. Seuss Flowers
Arctic Circle Trail Reindeer
Sneaking Up on Reindeer

Campfire Fail

Grey clouds move in and the wind picks up again. I scramble to locate a good campsite before dark, stumbling upon a flat tent pitch that’s unfortunately exposed to cold wind blowing up from the valley ahead.

Luckily loose rocks surround the area — perfect for building a makeshift wind-break in front of the tent. I attempt to light a fire using fluffy cotton grass & twigs I’d collected earlier, but the wind is too strong.

This is why I love emergency space blankets.

You never know when they’ll come in handy. I always pack a sturdy version for long hikes. Wrapping it around my sleeping bag helps trap heat and protect from the wind sneaking under the lightweight tarp tent.

It’s a long, cold night, but I manage to get some sleep dreaming of the huge, mouth-watering musk ox steak that I’ll devour when I finally reach Sisimiut.

I wake with drool on my face & thick fog hanging over the area. Onward! ★

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Packing/Logistics
Travel Planning Resources For Greenland

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

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Greenland’s Arctic Circle Trail: PART 3. More at ExpertVagabond.com
Greenland’s Arctic Circle Trail: PART 3. More at ExpertVagabond.com

READ NEXT: Complete Travel Gear Guide

Have you ever thought about traveling to Greenland?


Hi, I’m Matthew Karsten — I’ve been traveling around the world for the last 10 years as a blogger, photographer, and digital nomad. Adventure travel & photography are my passions. Let me inspire you to travel with crazy stories, photography, and money-saving travel tips.
Matthew Karsten
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Comments (21)

  1. Hey Matt:

    I’ve been waiting for the story of your Greendland trip. Allow me to share I think this series capture your blogging at its best: informative, inspiring, and well-written!

    I look forward to the remaining of the series. :)

  2. Your pictures are amazing I really like your way to life I follow you . (Sorry for my English I ‘m Italian ) why do you came in Italy to a new adventure ?it’s a wonderful place and I think you’ll have fun …. Please think about it

    • I’ve spent about 2 weeks exploring the area around Milan up North actually Greta. Love it! Would love to experience the South though.

  3. WOW, this is amazing post series. I love Greenland. I spent there a week three years ago. It was amazing experience. We were staying in Kulusuk. It was bloody cold, because we visited in February. I visited almost 90 countries, but Greenland is one of my favourites!

  4. I don’t know why I’ve never been to Greenland seeing as I’m from Denmark!
    I used to go to a boarding school with lots of people from Greenland, and I loved hearing about where they were from!
    I’ve really been enjoying following your trip to Greenland and your pictures are amazing – as usual!

    • You should make it a point to go then Zascha, the Greenlandic culture is pretty unique and interesting to learn about. It seems the Danes & the Germans are the only ones who really visit Greenland on a regular basis at the moment.

  5. Wow, these photos are amazing (especially love the one of the reindeer)! This article definitely convinced me I need to get to Greenland.

    • Thanks Nick! Getting close to those reindeer is tougher than I thought it would be. You really need to try and sneak up on them.

  6. Wow what beautiful pictures, Greenland and Iceland are two places I really want to go and your posts have encouraged me more! It is amazing how good nature can be to us and how much blogging can actually take its toll on someone!

    Thanks for the great reading!

    • Right now Greenland and Iceland are my favorites. So many amazing landscapes to explore, and interesting culture too.

  7. This is the most beautiful post I’ve ever read about Greenland. Images are so mesmerizing beautifully captured.
    I enjoyed your post, thanks for sharing your experience, journey with us.

  8. What kind of mushrooms did you find/eat? Looks like a Bolette species in the picture.

    We found a huge chicken of the woods mushrooms in Olympic National Park (WA) this year on a multi-day trek. Fed Anne and I for 3 days ha ha!

    Lots of mushrooms on the trail sure would make carrying 10 days of food easier ;)

    • It is a Bolette! Good eye. I probably ate 20 mushrooms or so over the 10 days, along with tons of wild berries. Certainly helped.

  9. Matthew,

    This is a really cool story, but now I can’t get your bare butt out of my vision. And who took that photo? You left out the details man, the details… :-).

    So how cold was that water?

    I really do want to do Greenland, I’ve flown over it way too often.

    • Haha. That was my secret mission Kerwin, to burn an image of my butt into everyone’s mind. You can’t un-see it!

      It was a naked selfie. Tripod & time lapse. I didn’t make poor Flemming & Ellen take it! :-)

  10. I’m so insanely jealous of your trip to Greenland! I was just in Iceland last weekend and I can only imagine how beautiful Greenland must be. Will you be including costs related to this trip in your logistics roundup? Definitely adding to the adventure travel bucket list!

    • Hey Katelyn, glad you’re enjoying it! Yes I’ll be including costs, lodging options before and after the hike, what to pack, info on the seasons and more.