Old Volkswagen Beetle in Playa del Carmen

After 5 weeks of backpacking through Mexico, this is a complete report about my experience. How much did it cost? Was it safe? What was my most memorable experience?

The Experience

The first thing I want to say is that Mexico is not as dangerous as people make it out to be. While I did only spend my time in the Yucatan Peninsula, I can say with confidence that this area is safer and friendlier than many parts of the US. Because the American media only reports on sensational news that happens in Mexico, individuals who have never been there assume that the whole country is a wild and dangerous place. This gives people a skewed view about the country, resulting in a sort of mass hysteria. Mexico is very big, and just because there is violence in parts of the North does not mean the whole country is some sort of failed state. Major cities in the US have ridiculous crime rates, but that does not mean it’s unsafe for foreign travelers to visit our country either.

While knowledge of Spanish would be a great benefit, it is not needed to travel in a foreign country. I was a bit worried about my lack of Spanish, and people in this area of Mexico do not speak much English. It was frustrating to communicate at times, but it wasn’t impossible. I carried a small Spanish phrasebook that covered the basics which worked fine.

As an American, most of the time I was treated like a celebrity, but sometimes I had to endure ridicule. There was more of the former than the latter though. In touristy towns the local population just sees you as a way to make money, which is another reason I’m glad I didn’t spend too much time in these places. You can’t be hot-headed or have low self-esteem if you want to travel, because people WILL laugh at and make fun of you, and not always in a light-hearted manner.

For the most part the people I met in Mexico were all incredibly friendly, hard working, patient, and generous individuals. Many would insist on buying drinks or cooking food for me, without wanting anything in return other than conversation and friendship. Sure, there were “touts” and beggars, but you’ll find them in most places. Complete strangers would help me with directions or interpret bus announcements. At first I was wary of this type of thing, my own hidden fears showing themselves. But the more it happened the more I realized it was just natural kindness. Good luck trying to find that kind of attitude in South Florida!

Americans don’t travel to this area of Mexico much. In my 5 weeks of travel here, I only met 3 or 4 other travelers from the US. Most of the travelers I met were from Europe or Mexico City. The summer season is slow here because of the heat, and boy did I feel it. I got used to not having AC after a while though, and changing my shirt twice a day. The cold showers were actually nice in the afternoons. Even with the heat, I’m glad I visited Mexico at this time of year, because there were hardly any other tourists around.

Mexico Travel Costs:

Here is a breakdown of how much money I spent during my 5 weeks in Mexico:

• Food & Drink: $367 US (groceries, restaurants, water, alcohol)
• Accommodation: $327 US (hostels, hotels, camping fees)
• Transportation: $149 US (buses, taxis, boats)
• Activities: $86 US (entrance fees, rentals, classes, tours, etc.)
• Other: $66 US (laundry, internet, phone, toiletries, souvenirs, etc.)

DAYS = 36

TOTAL SPENT = $995 US

DAILY AVERAGE = $27.64 US

While this may seem like a very low number, Mexico is cheap to travel through if you avoid the major tourist cities. Staying in dorms at backpacking hostels and traveling by second class bus and collectivos saved me a lot of money.

So did cooking a majority of my own meals. I did make sure to eat out at least once a day at either restaurants or street vendors. I never felt like I was missing out on something important because I was spending less money, in fact I actually felt like I was receiving a more worthwhile experience by eating and getting around like a local would.

Mexico Travel Photo Gallery

View My Full Photo Slideshow from Mexico

Blog Posts from Mexico

Read About My Adventures in Mexico

What I’ve Learned

One major change I’ve seen in myself since I got back to the US is that I am starting to resist the rampant consumerism that exists in our country. Living out of my backpack was one of the most liberating and happy experiences I’ve ever had, and it’s already changing the way I live back in America. As soon as I got back I started selling crap I don’t need and hardly ever use, trying to simplify my life.

I think I’m becoming a lot more relaxed and patient with problems that may pop up from time to time as well. Bus breakdowns in the middle of nowhere, towns without working ATMs, getting caught in downpours, no hot water, walking everywhere, foreign language issues, power outages, lack of air conditioning in 102 degree heat and other experiences I had in Mexico make the minor inconveniences that many people in our country complain about seem downright funny. I’ve started to realize just how selfish and lucky we Americans really are.

Super Willy's Grocery Store

The Super Willy grocery stores are in almost every town in Mexico. Easy to locate from far away due to their fashionable color scheme. I purchased many packages of tortillas, tuna fish, beer, pasta, powdered milk, and salsa in these buildings.

Mexican Doggy Takes Siesta

Went for a walk on the outskirts of town in Valladolid, Mexico and found this scrappy dog resting in the afternoon heat. I don’t blame him for hiding in the shade, the temperature was over 100 degrees Fahrenheit!

Staff & Volunteers of Angle Notion Charity

I’d like to introduce you to some of the staff of the Mexican charity Angel Notion Health Clinic located in Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo, Mexico. From left to right: Araceli Ballestros, Dr. Gabriel Ayala Velazquez-Matis, Enedina, Monica Macias, and Mauricio Rojas.

If you didn’t already know, once a month I find a local charity in the country I happen to be traveling in and make a donation to help them out. Some of the money comes from me, and some comes from the readers of my travel blog, like you.

Angel Notion’s mission is to help provide education and medical care to the area’s citizens who can’t afford it themselves. The clinic provides specialized treatment and surgeries to disabled children, dentistry, and pediatric cardiology services among other things. You can find out more about them on their website here: Angel Notion Mexico Charity

I stopped by the clinic this day to meet the staff and volunteers, and made a donation of $45 US. While it’s not much, everything helps. This small amount can provide about 4 ultrasounds to new young mothers in Mexico. I hope as this website grows, we can increase monthly donations for future charities I find during my travels.

The clinic is the first charity to receive a donation, but there will be a new one every month while I am traveling around the world. So if you would like to help with future charities I discover on my trip, Click Here to Make a Donation Now.

Beach at Playa del Carmen

A lazy Monday afternoon at Playa del Carmen beach. I only spent 2 days here, and it was more touristy than the other spots I visited, but still a nice way to end my time in Mexico. The beach was actually pretty empty on this day.

Mayan Ruins of Tulum at Sunrise

The Mayan ruins of Tulum are located on the Caribbean coast of the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico.

I went for a visit during the day like everyone else, and was very impressed. This is mainly due to the fact that they are located on cliffs overlooking the sea.

But during the day, there are hundreds of other tourists milling about. Not a very relaxing or moving experience at a beautiful ancient site like this. Wouldn’t it be much nicer to have the whole site to yourself?

While I’m not going to say exactly how I did it, because I don’t want to feel responsible for others that may try, I also managed to sneak into the site before sunrise the next day. There was security posted at the main entrance and patrolling the area even at 4am.

I later found out from hostel employees that other people have tried, and they all get caught…

Tulum Ruins & Pyramid

Alone at an Ancient City

Anyway, sneaking into the Tulum ruins was great entertainment. It was part surreal beauty and part pumping adrenalin! I had to hide from the guards on patrol while at the same time setting up my tripod and camera for different early morning photos. Of course I needed to try and relax every once in a while to enjoy the view too!

While I understand why authorities don’t want a bunch of drunk kids climbing all over the ruins at night and wrecking them, I don’t fit that profile. I was just there to make some nice photos, and peacefully take in the scenery by myself at this fantastic location.

So if your intentions are harmless, and you’re smart enough to do it safely, I say why not? The Mayan ruins of Tulum have been there since 1200 AD, a few people climbing them isn’t going to wreck em’. Thousands of people climbing them every day? Maybe a little. But a few people a week? Hardly. The whole place is made of stone! Nature’s elements are far more destructive.

Main Pyramid at Tulum

Protection from Sheeple

Most of the pyramids get closed off to climbing once mainstream tourism takes over the area anyway. When thousands of overweight German & American tourists start climbing up the stairs on all fours every week, they have to makes rules against climbing to avoid structural damage when those same tourists slip & roll back down the stairs. Oh, and to help prevent the lawsuits too.

If giant herds of people weren’t visiting each year, they’d have no reason to do this. All these temples were once open to climbing before they became popular tourist attractions. When 50 people a week climb it’s no problem. When 10,000 people a week climb, it’s time to shut it down. There are plenty of sites that don’t see as much tourism where you can still climb all the temples.

But that’s fine, I completely understand. Someday I’ll be a middle-aged and overweight traveler too, needing protection from myself. But until that day comes…

Even at a well traveled tourist site like Tulum, you can still create a little bit of adventure.

Cool Caves of Grand Cenote

Welcome to Grand Cenote, a few kilometers outside of Tulum, Mexico. It consists of two open sky sinkholes that are connected to each other with a cave. There are caves all over the place here, and scuba divers go diving in it too. You can find fish, underwater flowers, and cave birds feeding their babys in the nests on the wall.

Here I am enjoying the vegetation on the bottom. Those are fish swimming in front of my face.

Swimming with the Fish and Flowers

Calakmul Ruins Hidden in the Jungle

Calakmul is an ancient Mayan city located deep within the Mexican jungle.

Not too many tourists make it out this way, mainly due to it’s remote location. Calakmul is definitely one of those off the beaten path kind of places.

After my Mexican President roadblock issue the day before, I finally set out on my 2nd attempt to visit the ancient Mayan ruins of Calakmul. Only this time I got halfway into the 60 kilometer trip before my legs told me to stop.

If you remember, I had biked 40 kilometers the day before (to the military roadblock and back). So today my body was too tired to continue up and down the jungle hills for the whole trip. So, I hitchhiked.

A small pickup truck was driving by and picked me up to finish the trip to the Calakmul ruins. I sat in the bed of the truck with my bike like everyone in Mexico does, and had a great fresh-air drive through the jungle. The friendly people who gave me a lift consisted of a nature guide and two travelers from South Carolina.

Stella with Pigment Still Showing

The Calakmul Ruins are Vast

We arrived at Calakmul and I had 4 hours to wander around and explore pretty much to myself. The site is huge and 4 hours was rushing it, if you can believe that. There are two gigantic pyramids, with the largest one 55 meters high (165 feet).

This makes it the 2nd tallest of all the Mayan pyramids ever found, and you can climb it! I spent a good half hour at the top taking in the vast jungle and the strong cool breeze.

Another traveler joined me up there, a Bulgarian who also hitchhiked to the ruins. We had a little chat where I learned he spends 8 months in each country he visits! A permanent traveler. And I thought my year long trip was a big deal…

View From the Top

Ancient Mayan City

The city of Calakmul is thought to have been populated with 50,000 people. One of the coolest parts about these ruins is that they are so remote, and still covered with jungle.

There are many great stelae at this site too, large slabs of stone that have been intricately carved with pictures and glyphs. Some of them still have pigments of color on them, like the one at the bottom of Structure 2 in my second photo here.

The pyramids are very steep, and the steps are not that big, maybe just the length of your foot, many are shorter than that… Climbing the two big ones in the blazing sun, after all the biking I did over the past few days was quite a workout!

My legs felt like rubber when I finally left.

I no longer had any energy to bike the 30 km back to my campsite, and knowing this had arranged for a taxi to meet me there for the ride back to town.

After packing up camp, we arrived at the little town of Xpujil where I slept for 12 hours in a hotel with air conditioning! I decided to splurge a bit on the hotel, which cost $200 pesos (about $16 US).

It was worth it though, despite the power in the building going out 4 times throughout the night…

Overall, my trip to Calakmul has been my favorite adventure in Mexico thus far.

My Yaax'Che Campsite in Calakmul Biosphere

I had heard that you could camp near the Mayan ruins of Calakmul, in the biosphere reserve. After you pass the main gate (where they charge a small fee to enter) you’ll find the Yaax’Che campground a few kilometers down the road on the right. Because I didn’t have a car, I hired a taxi to bring me to the campground from the town of Xpujil for $250 Pesos ($20 US).

The campground is fantastic. I used my own camping hammock, so it only cost $50 Pesos ($4 US) a night to set it up under a shelter. You can rent tents and cots from the campground if you don’t have your own with you though.

The place has no running water and no electricity, but it does have a restaurant! (kind of) The caretakers have stone-fire ovens where they cook up a few different local Mayan dishes. My favorite was the Quesideas with hand prepared tortillas plus rice and beans on the side. It’s not exactly a restaurant, more like your neighbor making a nice dinner for you.

There are some composting toilets, and shower stalls with buckets of brownish sulfur-smelling water for you to dump on yourself. Fun! While the facilities are not fancy, the location is amazing.

The mosquitoes weren’t too bad during the day, and there are crazy butterflies all over the place. My favorite was a huge purple one, almost the size of your hand. But at night was when the real fun began….

Welcome to Campamento Yaax'Che

The jungle comes alive at night. The first thing you hear around sunset is some kind of insect that makes noises that sound like alien spaceships are coming down to land. No joke. They are REALLY loud, and they are everywhere.

Next, the local howler monkey family starts to scream right above you in the trees. Again, these are also VERY loud, and a bit freaky sounding. It can be pretty startling to hear all this loud stuff happening around you in the dark, especially when you can’t see what is making the noises.

When walking to the bathroom at night with my headlamp, I saw all kinds of shining lights on the ground, like diamonds littering the jungle floor. Upon closer inspection I found that these are the eyes of all the insects and bugs reflecting the light of my headlamp! Little spiders, giant spiders, beetles the size of your fist, and I even saw a few scorpions.

This jungle is also constantly raining, but it’s not water I’m talking about! Inchworms fall down on you from the trees above. You hear them smack down on the roof of your shelter all day and night, and they rain on your head as you walk around the camp. The worms hang down from the trees by threads of web also, so you constantly run into them with your face…

Stone Oven Quesidea Dinner

Just a warning, if you don’t have a car, don’t try and rent a bike at the Yaax’che campground and use it to get to the Mayan ruins of Calakmul. The ruins are still about 57 kilometers away from the campground. Even though the road through the jungle is paved, it has many hills and is not an easy ride. I learned that the hard way!

The campground will shuttle you to the ruins for the day, but it’s a bit expensive at $500 Pesos ($40 US). If there are a few people camping with you, splitting this cost is the best bet. Or you could hitch a ride with someone staying at the campground who has a rental car with them. Unfortunately when I wanted to visit the site, I was the only one using the campground that day (which was kinda nice).

You may also be able to hitchhike with other tourists driving up to the site for the day, or flag down a taxi and share the fare with whoever else is in it, but there aren’t too many people that visit these ruins, so hitching a ride isn’t a sure bet. You could wait on the road for 2 hours before you even see a single car, depending on the day.

All in all, I highly recommend camping at Yaax’Che if you plan to visit the Calakmul ruins. It makes for an interesting jungle experience!

Storm Brewing Over Radio Tower in Campeche

While biking outside the city of Campeche one day, I came across this cool storm slowly making it’s way over the city. The radio tower in the photo is on top of a hill overlooking the ocean. We ran into a group of random goats in the middle of the road up here too.